Information

Caring for gooseberries, currants and raspberries after harvest, photo, feeding, pruning and processing

Caring for gooseberries, currants and raspberries after harvest, photo, feeding, pruning and processing


Fruit and berry plants

Spring and most of the summer are behind - the harvest of berries has been grown and harvested. Nevertheless, gardeners still have a lot of work, since berry bushes require attention even after picking berries. In order for gooseberries, raspberries and currants to abundantly disfigure next year, you need to monitor their health and take preventive measures to combat factors that can reduce yields and damage plant health.

Currant after harvest

Fruiting of currants begins in mid-July and lasts 20-30 days. Most often, black and red currants are grown, although in recent years, white currants have also become widespread. The difference between these species is not only in the color of the berries, but also in the fact that the leaves of black currant are much more fragrant than the leaves of white and red due to the fact that glands with essential oil are located on them.

Despite the fact that in recent years, blueberries, honeysuckle, strawberries and blackberries, as well as the overseas curiosities of actinidia, black and red currants, are increasingly grown in our gardens, along with berries such as gooseberries, raspberries and strawberries , is still one of the most popular berry crops in our climatic region.

Watering

Black currant, perhaps more than all berry bushes, is demanding on soil and air moisture. And in nature, it most often grows along the banks of rivers, in humid lowlands with flowing groundwater - currants do not like stagnation of moisture in the roots.

Red currants are less hygrophilous, however, she also needs regular watering. The lack of water in the first half of the season negatively affects the quality and quantity of the current year's harvest, and the lack of moisture after picking berries has a bad effect on the setting of flower buds and the accumulation of plastic substances for the next year's harvest. Therefore, caring for currants after harvesting includes two sessions of watering currants in August and September - for an average humidity of summer, this will be enough.

If the fall is dry, give the currants a good winter watering in October. Most of the roots of currants lie at a depth of 40-45 cm, so the soil should be moistened to a depth of 50 cm. The approximate rate of water consumption is 4-5 buckets per m². Watering is carried out along furrows along currant bushes or by sprinkling. The best time is early in the morning or after 4:00 pm.

Top dressing

In late September or early October, organic and mineral fertilizers are applied under the currant bushes at the rate of 10 kg of compost or rotted manure, 40 g of potassium chloride and 100 g of superphosphate for each bush, followed by abundant watering and embedding of fertilizers into the ground by digging. Fertilization of currants with nitrogen-containing preparations after harvesting is not carried out. Instead of the listed funds, you can add a garden or fruit and berry mixture.

Pruning

Currant care involves sanitary and formative pruning of bushes. Of all the berry bushes, black currant needs to be pruned the most, and the first shearing of the bush is carried out immediately after planting, so that it is easier to form it during subsequent growth. The formation of a growing bush continues for the next 2-3 years, until the seedling turns into a full-fledged bush by the fourth year of life.

A well-formed bush should have from 10 to 15 branches of different ages, and there should be two to three more annual branches than five to six years old. Branches over six years old become unproductive and should be removed.The best time to prune currants would be early spring, but currant buds wake up too early and pruning time is easy to miss. Therefore, the main pruning of the bush is carried out in the fall. Immediately after removing the last berries, remove the old, poorly fruiting branches and shoots that thicken the bush. Then carry out sanitary pruning of sick, dried and damaged branches and shoots.

In addition to removing unnecessary shoots and branches after harvesting, it is advisable to remove all leaves from blackcurrant bushes, since insect pests often settle in them, and pathogens of fungal diseases are easier to infect the leaves. You need to put on a glove on your hand, gently grab the shoot or branch at the base and run your hand from the bottom to the top. Leaves that could not be torn off, carefully cut off with scissors or pruning shears. Do not run your hand backwards along the shoot - you can damage or rip off the buds. After that, scoop up the foliage and burn it or dig it up on the ground. Red currant also hibernates without leaves, but you cannot pick them off - the leaves must fall off themselves.

Reproduction of currants

In autumn, from mid-September to mid-October, currant propagation is carried out with lignified cuttings. Cuttings are cut from well-developed annual shoots, and it is desirable to cut off the shoots so that no stumps remain. The top of the bush for grafting is not useful. For cutting cuttings, it is better to use a sharp knife, since the pruner deforms the wood, which sharply reduces the survival rate of the cuttings. The length of the segments should be 18-20 cm, the lower cut should be oblique, at an angle of approximately 45º from the side opposite to the kidney; you need to cut 1 cm away from the kidney. The upper cut is a straight line, passing one centimeter above the kidney.

The soil for the currants must be prepared in advance - well-decomposed peat mixed with sand in equal parts. The cuttings are planted at a 45 ° slope at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other, the gap between the rows is 30 cm. At least two buds should remain on each cuttings above the ground. After planting, the soil is compacted so that the cuttings cannot be pulled out of the ground too easily. Cuttings planted in time will have time to take root well before winter.

If you dug in layers in the spring, it's time to separate them from the mother bush and plant them separately.

Treatment

Growing currants involves protecting bushes from such negative phenomena as diseases and pests of currants. Immediately after picking the berries, treat the bushes with actellik in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations - this will protect the currants from the appearance of aphids or other harmful insects on it. After the autumn pruning and removal of fallen and torn leaves from the site, the currants are treated for the winter with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid or karbofos in case pests or pathogens have settled in its bark or in the soil under the bushes.

Gooseberry after harvest

How to water

The gooseberry is one of the most drought-resistant berry bushes, however, in dry summers, the gooseberry growing on light soils needs watering, and not only during the ripening of the berries, but also after harvest, when the plants begin to prepare for winter and lay the buds for the next fruiting.

In order to saturate the soil with moisture and prepare the bush for winter from late September to mid-October, water-charging irrigation is carried out in two or three doses. The rate of water consumption is from 40 to 60 liters for each bush. The depth of soaking of the soil should be at least 50 cm - it is to this depth that the roots of the gooseberry lie. The methods of watering gooseberries are the same as for currants.

How to fertilize

Gooseberry care involves the regular introduction of mineral and organic fertilizers into the soil.Fertilization of the gooseberry with nitrogen and organic matter after the fruiting of the gooseberry is completed is not carried out, and phosphorus and potash fertilizers are applied to the soil once every two years in the fall - this increases the winter hardiness of the plant. The approximate fertilizer rate for each square meter of the plot is 50 g of superphosphate and 30 g of potassium, which can be replaced with 100 g of ash.

If the soil on the site is sandy or sandy loam, the dose of potassium should be increased by a quarter of the norm. Fertilizers are scattered over the site and, after watering, are embedded in the soil to a depth of 10-12 cm.

How to trim

Gooseberry cultivation is complicated by the fact that it produces a huge number of young thorny shoots every year, making it difficult to pick berries and care for gooseberries after harvest. Therefore, in the spring, and especially in the fall, it is so important to prune the bushes, freeing them from unnecessary, sick, dried and broken shoots. Moreover, not only prickly, but also thornless gooseberry varieties are cut off, since strong thickening harms any shrub, and too many shoots weakens the plant and leads to disease or damage to the bush by insect pests. Autumn pruning allows you to thin out the gooseberries so that the sunlight needed by the plant penetrates into the very depths of the bush.

You need to prune gooseberries in the middle of autumn, because with earlier pruning during the autumn thaws, shoots that do not have time to woody before winter can grow. Thin twigs are cut almost to the base, since there will be no fruit on them, and they only waste food from well-bearing shoots. Remove old, darkened branches that are unlikely to bear fruit next year due to age. If there are too many such branches on the bush, remove only a third of them, and cut the rest after a year or two.

Before the very frost, cut off those branches that interfere with the growth of others, leaving younger ones on the bush, and also remove the lower branches lying on the ground. Treat slices thicker than 7 mm with garden pitch. When pruning branches, try not to leave stumps.

Gooseberry propagation

In October, it is time for gooseberry propagation by layering. On a healthy five to six-year-old bush, select a few low-growing, well-developed branches, shorten the annual growth by about a third of the length on them - this measure promotes more intensive germination of lateral buds, which in turn stimulates good root development and shoot growth. Bend the prepared layers to the ground, place them in the pre-dug grooves and pin them with wire or wooden hooks. Then cover the layers with earth, water and mulch the soil around. You can, of course, propagate gooseberries by layering in the spring, but you need to start early, before bud break.

In autumn, gooseberries can be propagated by cuttings. Lignified cuttings 20 cm long are cut from the top of the overgrown or basal shoots - they root better. Gooseberry cuttings are planted in the beds at an angle of 45 º, leaving one or two buds above the surface, the soil is compacted around them, the bed is mulched with peat or sawdust and covered with foil.

How and what to process

Gooseberry pests and diseases can jeopardize both the quality and quantity of the future berry harvest. It is customary to deal with these problems as soon as they appear, but it is better to avoid these problems. That is why it is necessary to treat gooseberry bushes with fungicides and insecticides several times during the growing season for preventive purposes.

In the fall, after harvesting and digging the site, as well as trimming the gooseberry, remove and burn all plant residues, and then process the bushes and the soil under them with one percent Bordeaux liquid or preparations of a similar action - copper chloride, captan.

Raspberries after harvest

Watering Tips

Caring for raspberries involves regular watering of the shrub, since drying out of the soil in the raspberry is unacceptable.If the autumn is dry, it is necessary to water the raspberries, especially since their roots do not lie deeper than 25-35 cm. The soil in the area where raspberries grow should be slightly damp all the time. If the site is mulched and if it is autumn with rains, you will need to water the raspberries less often. The most important point for caring for raspberries is its water-charging irrigation, carried out in November in case of dry October. The rate of water consumption is 5-6 buckets per square meter of raspberries. The better the soil is saturated with moisture, the better the raspberries will overwinter.

Fertilizer

Raspberries are the most demanding of all berry bushes in terms of nutrition, since the raspberry yield directly depends on the thickness of its stems: the thicker the stem, the more berries it will have next year. Fertilizers applied to the soil stimulate the growth of shoots. Based on this, the cultivation of raspberries involves regular feeding. The best fertilizer for raspberries is organic matter: slurry, bird droppings, peat-manure compost.

Even if during planting you put a large amount of fertilizer in the pits, they will only last for three years, and starting from the fourth, you need to regularly apply organic fertilizing in the fall. As Academician Bolotov once said, raspberries bear fruit well in places “where the leg is drowning in manure”, therefore, as soon as the fruiting of raspberries is complete, nitroammofoska is scattered around the site for digging row spacings at the rate of 50-80 g / m², and in the fall under each bush make 3-4 buckets of peat or humus and 100 g of saltpeter or urea.

Raspberry pruning

Post-harvest raspberry care includes pruning the shrub in the fall. As you know, raspberry stalks bear fruit only for a year, and it is unwise to leave the stalks that have yielded harvest for the winter, therefore, in the fall, such shoots are cut as close to the ground as possible so that there are no stumps left in which pests or pathogenic fungi can settle. In addition to old stems, you need to cut off young and too thin shoots. As a result, young thick stems should remain, which need to be shortened by 10-20 cm.

Do not allow the bushes to grow together with each other, immediately cut off the small root shoots around them - there should be a distance of at least 60 cm between the raspberry bushes.And keep in mind that the cut stems and parts of the shoots must be burned.

Reproduction

In the fall, after the end of the growth of shoots, if necessary, you can propagate raspberries by dividing the bush. The bush is dug up, divided into parts with well-developed roots and planted. After transplanting, raspberry shoots are shortened to 20-30 cm. The best time to divide the bush is mid-October. If in the summer you did not cut off the green root shoots, then by the fall you had a sufficient number of root suckers on your site with an independent root system, but still connected to the mother plant. Dig up these children with an earthen clod and transplant to a new place, cleared of other plants and weeds.

In the fall, after the first light frosts, it is time to harvest lignified cuttings, which you will root at home in winter, and plant them on the site in spring.

Bushes processing

Diseases and pests of raspberries, if you do not fight them mercilessly, can destroy the entire raspberry tree in a year or two. That is why it is so important to carry out preventive treatments of the bushes, and not wait until diseases or parasites begin to destroy the fruits of your labor. As soon as the last berries are collected from the bushes, treat the shrub with a solution of fufanon - 10 ml of the drug per 10 liters of water. Consumption of solution for one bush is approximately 1-1.5 liters.

Instead of fufanon, you can use actellic by diluting one ampoule of the product in two liters of water. Actellik consumption - 1.5 liters of solution per 10 m². Inta-vir also belongs to such means, the tablet of which is dissolved in 10 liters of water and the solution is consumed like actellic. In the fall, after the area has been cleared of fallen leaves and plant cuttings, process the raspberries and soil under the bushes with one percent Bordeaux liquid.

Second harvest of remontant raspberries

Caring for remontant raspberries after fruiting

Reparability - the ability to bear fruit continuously throughout the growing season. In addition, remontant raspberries bear fruit on both annual and two-year shoots, so, in principle, it is possible to get two harvests per year. Having taken off the harvest in August-September of this year from annual stems, in the twentieth of June next year, you can get a harvest from two-year-old shoots, but the berries of the next autumn harvest will be small, dry and bony, because the June harvest takes away all the strength from raspberries. which is barely enough for the growth of annual replacement shoots, but not enough for full re-fruiting.

Therefore, if you want to get two full-fledged crops per year, you will have to actively feed and water remontant raspberries, however, these measures do not guarantee the desired result. It is much easier and wiser to grow common raspberry varieties that bear fruit in early summer, and remontant varieties for a full autumn harvest. In this case, cut off the remontant raspberries in the fall, after fruiting, you need to completely, trying not to leave hemp. In the spring, the stems will grow back, and in late summer or early autumn they will give an excellent harvest of large juicy berries. Thus, you will have a remontant raspberry with a one-year growth and fruiting cycle. And this has many advantages: the stems do not freeze in winter, insect pests and diseases do not accumulate, it becomes much easier to care for raspberries.

But if you want to get two harvests a year, immediately after the first, summer fruiting, remove the two-year-old fruiting stems so that the raspberries have time and strength to grow the shoots of the current year by autumn, which will give the berries of the second, autumn harvest. And in time, remove too weak, thin branches so that they do not take away nutrition from the sturdier and more promising stems in terms of fruiting.

Literature

  1. Read the topic on Wikipedia
  2. Information about Fruit Crops
  3. Information about Berry Crops

Sections: Fruit and berry plants Berry bushes Gardening


Autumn care for black currants according to the rules

The vast majority of gardeners, especially summer residents, after the end of the berry picking season, forget about their bushes until next spring and, at best, feed them after the snow melts with a handful of nitroammofoski or weed them, removing the rapidly growing wheatgrass. This is the fate of the black currant. Although outwardly the culture appears to be a healthy and robust shrub, it also requires care and attention. And especially in the autumn, when there is a long and possibly harsh winter ahead.

Adding fertile soil to the black currant bush. © Dorling Kindersley


Tillage in autumn

To provide the gooseberry with optimal living conditions before the arrival of the winter period, it is necessary to take care not only of the shrub itself, but also of the soil. It should be engaged in the elimination of weeds and fallen leaves, as well as digging, loosening and mulching.

Removing foliage and weeds

The first thing to do is to pick up the garbage, because in the root area there is an accumulation of foliage, as well as crushed and rotten berries. All rubbish should be collected and incinerated. If this is not done, then fallen leaves and berries will become a suitable environment for the development of diseases and fungi, as well as an excellent shelter for pests.

Fallen leaves without signs of disease can not be burned, but used as compost.

In the fall, you also need to weed the weeds under the bushes, since they take food from the gooseberry root system, deplete the soil and affect the increase in moisture levels, which can provoke the development of viruses. Woodlice and wheatgrass are private guests under the gooseberry bushes.

Large weeds must be dug out with a bayonet shovel, and at the end, with a rake, clean the ground of accumulated debris. In order to avoid harming the roots of the gooseberry, it is extremely important not to pull out the rhizomes of the weeds, but to dig them out.

Experienced gardeners recommend leaving the above-ground part of the weeds in the aisles around the bushes and in the trunk circles, lightly chopping with a shovel. In the future, green mass will become a good fertilizer and will keep the soil loose.

Digging and loosening

The ground under the gooseberry must be dug up to complete several tasks:

  • destroy pests and spores of fungal diseases
  • prevent soil compaction, as this can lead to the fact that the roots of the plant are deficient in oxygen, rise to the surface and freeze in winter

Unlike spring digging, in autumn the soil does not need to be broken, but it is enough to turn it over with a pitchfork. Loosening is carried out carefully in the middle of the bush and in the near-stem circle with a depth of 5-7 cm. Along the perimeter and in the aisles, you can deepen it by 12-15 cm.

Mulching and hilling

To protect the root system from upcoming frosts, preserve the porosity of the soil and improve its water-air regime, mulching should be carried out after the autumn processing of the bushes, and it is recommended to do this before frost appears.

The following components can be used as mulch:

  • peat
  • compost with dry leaves
  • rotted sawdust.

The optimal layer of mulch is 10-15 cm. In the spring season, it must be removed, while simultaneously destroying overwintered pests. After that, the soil should be slightly loosened to ensure that it warms up quickly.

If the bushes are heavily infested with moth, in the fall they should be earthed up to a height of 12 cm.In the spring, after flowering, the soil must be wiped out beyond the crown perimeter in order to prevent the formation of unnecessary roots for the plant.


Black currant: growing and care

In order for berry bushes to develop well and bear fruit, it is necessary to provide proper care for black currants throughout the growing season.

Spring care for black currants

Before the appearance of buds, all old, dried or diseased branches are cut to a healthy stem, the wounds are covered with garden var. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied (up to 80 g of ammonium nitrate or 50 g of urea per plant) for two-year-old bushes. After feeding, the soil is dug up and watered.

Sanitary currant pruning

At the time of the formation of the ovary until the beginning of June, watering is carried out at the rate of up to 30 liters of water per bush, every 5 days. This is done in the evening using warm water (10-15 degrees Celsius) at the root. For watering, it is recommended to make circular grooves 15 cm deep at a distance of 30 cm from the seedling. Water ingress on leaves can lead to the development of powdery mildew.

Watering a young currant bush in spring

To improve the moisture resistance of the soil, mulching is desirable. You can use peat, straw or newspaper. It is important to do this during the green cone and bud formation phase to prevent moisture loss.

Summer currant care

In the first half of June, organic feeding should be carried out: up to 15 kg of humus per 1 bush, or liquid feeding (bird droppings diluted with water 1:10).

When there is no rain for a long time, timely watering is especially necessary. Usually a bucket of water a week is enough. Watering currants in summer becomes more frequent from late June to mid-July during the ripening of berries, and is done every 5 days.

Currant care in June also includes pinching the young stems of the tops by 2 buds to increase the number of side shoots. This procedure promotes the development of new shoots. The timing of the pinching is postponed to a later date in order to delay the fruiting of the bush.

During the ripening of the fruits, foliar dressing is applied: mixing 5 g of potassium permanganate, 40 g of ferrous sulfate and 3 g of boric acid. Dissolve them separately, and then mix together in a 10 L bucket of water. Spraying is carried out in the evening or on a cloudy, windless day.

Spraying and caring for currants in summer

After fertilizing or watering, it is recommended to remove weeds and gently loosen the soil up to 5 cm so as not to touch the root system of the plant located at a depth of 30 cm.The row spacing is loosened to a depth of 10 cm.

Harvesting berries must be done by the piece, and not plucked in a bunch. This is less likely to damage the plant. Watering and fertilization is completely stopped two to three weeks before harvest.

Care for currant bushes in autumn

After completing the harvest, starting in mid-August and throughout September, watering is carried out once a week, with loosening the soil to a depth of 5 cm. In dry autumn, preparation for winter includes increased soil moisture - half a meter deep.

At the end of September, it is necessary to introduce organic matter (4-6 kg of poultry droppings), or feed them with minerals: 20 g of potassium sulfate and 50 g of superphosphate. In any case, when fertilizing, add 200 g of wood ash. After that, the soil is dug up and mulched to increase fruiting for the next year.

Feeding currant bushes with organic matter

Before the onset of the first frost, it is necessary to prune underdeveloped and weak shoots, as well as those that grow in the middle of the bush and thicken it. Poorly developed young branches are also subject to removal, of which only 3-4 of the strongest are left. An adult bush usually consists of 15 shoots from different years of life.


Apple and pear tree care

Carrying out works (phenophase)

Activities (mandatory, marked with *, and optional).

In the spring before bud break

* Inspection of trees, fences and structures to identify, remove and burn nests of hawthorn and goldtail, twigs with clutches of eggs of ringed and gypsy moths, dry fruits, dead, damaged and dying branches. Cutting of branches affected by black cancer, treatment of wounds on the bark of trunks and main branches, filling of hollows and bites caused by rodents (clearing, disinfection with a 1-3% solution of copper sulfate, covering with garden pitch-pertolatum, etc.). Whitewashing of trunks to protect against sunburn, especially young trees, and partial destruction of pests hibernating under the bark.

* Hanging and cleaning of previously hung titmouses, birdhouses.

In the presence of a significant number of wintering stages of scale insects, eggs of aphids, suckers, ticks, comma and willow scale insects and other pests - spraying with one of the preparations, see Pesticides used in early spring

If in the past year the trees were affected by scab, the fallen leaves are sprayed with a fungicide, or they are collected and destroyed.

At the beginning of bud break (green cone)

Shaking off the trees on the litter (carried out 2-3 times at a temperature not higher than + 10 °) apple flower beetles and other weevils and their destruction. If last year the apple blossom beetle significantly damaged the buds (the threshold of their harmfulness can also be judged by the control shaking off - 40 individuals per 1 tree, see Economic thresholds for the expediency of plant processing), Karbofos is used (against weevils and leaf-damaging caterpillars).

If you have not previously sprayed with a fungicide and an outbreak of scab is expected, Bordeaux mixture (300 g) is used, as well as in gardens where scab constantly infects fruit trees, and to protect heavily affected varieties.

Colloidal sulfur (100 g) is used on pears against pear mites.

At the beginning of budding (bud extension)

Spraying with Bitoxibacillin (40-80 g, 2-5 days) with an interval of 8-10 days from apple and fruit moth, hawthorn, codling moth, leafworm, silkworm, moth, goldtail.

Or spraying with Lepidocide SK-M with an interval of 7-8 days against each generation of caterpillars of apple and fruit moth (25-50 ml, 2-3 days), hawthorn (50 ml), golden moth, moths, leafworms, silkworm (50-75 ml ), apple moth (100-150 g).

Spraying with one of the pesticides: Kinmix (2.5 ml) against aphids (second spraying), Karbofos (20 - 30 g) Entobacterin (80 - 100 g) is also used against caterpillars. When the leaves are populated by the larvae of fruit mites (300 individuals per 100 leaves), acaricides are used.

Sowing nectar plants and other plants that attract beneficial insects (mustard, buckwheat, dill, phacelia, carrot testes, etc.), along fences and in other places where pesticides are not used.

At the end of flowering (petal falling)

Pheromones-traps are hung up against the codling moth.

Spraying with Bitoxibacillin (40-80, 2-5 days g) with an interval of 8-10 days from apple and fruit moth, hawthorn, codling moth, leafworm, silkworm, moth, goldtail.

Or spraying with Lepidocide SK-M with an interval of 7-8 days against each generation of caterpillars of apple and fruit moth (25-50 ml, 2-3 days), hawthorn (50 ml), golden moth, moths, leafworms, silkworm (50-75 ml ), apple moth (100-150 g).

* Inspection of trees (the appearance of weak chlorotic scab spots on the leaves is a signal for action, if processed promptly, 2-3 days before the dark spots start, the development of the disease can be prevented), as well as preventive treatment of apple varieties unstable to scab (Melba, Antonovka, Papirovka , Zhigulevskoe, etc.) fungicides Skor (2 ml), Abiga-Peak (50 g), Bordeaux mixture (100 g) or one of the substitutes for Bordeaux mixture - against scab and other fungal diseases, or Colloidal sulfur (100 g). Against fruit sawflies of apple and pear, Fufanon or Kemifos (10 ml) are used, they can be mixed with Abiga-Peak and Tiovit-Jet.

Spraying with Bitoxibacillin (40-80 g, 2-5 days) with an interval of 8-10 days from apple and fruit moth, hawthorn, codling moth, leafworm, silkworm, moth, goldtail.

Or spraying with Lepidocide SK with an interval of 7-8 days against each generation of caterpillars of apple and fruit moth (25-50 ml, 2-3 days), hawthorn (50 ml), golden moth, pepipes, leafworms, silkworms (50-75 ml), apple moth (100-150 g).

For spider, hawthorn and other mites, Apollo (4 ml) or Fufanon (10 ml), and other acaricides are used.

* From apple powdery mildew (especially susceptible varieties to it (Jonathan, Renet Simirenko, Idared, etc.), as well as fruit rot (moniliosis), fungicides are used, Topaz (2 ml), Tiovit-Jet (30-80 g) are effective.

* Periodic inspection of trees and destruction of nests with caterpillars of the ringed silkworm, multiflorum, apple moth and other pests.

Repeated spraying of pears with Colloidal Sulfur (100 g) against pear mites.

Spraying of apple trees inhabited by apple sawfly, Karbofos (20 - 30 g) against ticks.

15 - 20 days after the flowering of winter varieties of apple trees (the beginning of hatching of caterpillars of the fruit-tree)

* Spraying with Bitoxibacillin (40-80 g, 2-5 days) from apple and fruit moths, hawthorn, apple moth, leafworm, silkworm, moths, golden moths.

Or spraying with Lepidocide SK-M with an interval of 7-8 days against each generation of caterpillars of apple and fruit moth (25-50 ml, 2-3 days), hawthorn (50 ml), golden moth, moths, leafworms, silkworm (50-75 ml ), apple moth (100-150 g).

Or treatment against the codling moth with Lepidocide SK-M (100-150 ml) and then with an interval of 10-14 days against each generation of codling moth caterpillars or with one of the preparations: Fitoverm (4 ml), Kinmiks (2.5 ml), Inta- VIR (1 tablet), Karbofos (90 g), many of them inhibit the development of leaf-gnawing caterpillars, apple moth, leaf rollers, cherry weevil and sucking pests - aphids, suckers. If it is necessary to combat scab and other fungal diseases, one of the substitutes for the Bordeaux mixture is added to compatible solutions - against scab and other fungal diseases, or Colloidal sulfur (100 g). A safe Lepidocide SK-M (20-30 g, 2-3 days) is used against the apple moth of summer and summer-autumn varieties (to exclude the presence of pesticide residues in the fruits).

Applying fishing belts to the stems of fruiting trees for catching moth caterpillars. Collecting wormy and rotten carrion (daily in the evenings).

With the massive appearance of a red apple tick (300 or more individuals per 100 leaves), as well as against other ticks, Apollo (4 ml), Fufanon (10 ml) are used.

12 - 15 days after the previous spraying

* Re-spraying of winter and late autumn varieties of apple trees against codling moth and scab (see above).

If necessary, re-spraying (using compatible mixtures of Acaricide preparations) also against ticks and other pests.

* Collecting wormy and rotten carrion (if possible, daily in the evenings).

Spraying with Bitoxibacillin (40-80 g, 2-5 days) against each generation of apple and fruit moth, hawthorn, codling moth, leafworm, silkworm, moth, goldtail.

Applying Fishing belts (viewed from every 7-12 days) to the stems of fruiting trees to catch moth caterpillars.

Destruction of corrosive arboreal trees by introducing chlorophos (100 g) into their passages. Cutting off the dead ends of the shoots damaged by the caterpillars of the corrosive first instar (the leaves on the damaged shoots turn brown).

* Identification of inhabited burrows of murine rodents and their destruction with baits, see Zoocides.

Removal of trapping belts against the moth and destruction of caterpillars that have climbed into them.

*13. Removal and burning of wintering hawthorn and goldtail nests and mummified fruits. Raking and burning scab-affected leaves or burying them in the soil when digging. You can put the leaves in compost heaps, covering them with earth or peat.

Collection and burning of fallen leaves (or composting them with a mandatory cover with a layer of earth or peat). Digging the soil (if the garden is not tinned).

Cleaning of dead bark particles from boles and twigs, whitewashing boles and skeletal branches with lime (2 - 2.5 kg) with the addition of copper sulfate (0.4 kg) and wood glue (0.1 kg) or clay (1 kg), or mullein (1 kg), or skim milk (1 - 2 glasses). You can use special whitewashing materials that repel rodents, see Zoocides.

* Tying boles of young trees with tar paper with preliminary winding tightly with matting (or other material), or spruce branches (tightly, with needles down), or reeds to protect against rodents. The use of agents that repel rodents - scattering peat chips around the trees, moistened with creolin emulsion (500 g), etc.

* Attraction of tits and other insectivorous birds to the gardens (hanging titmouses, feeding, especially during heavy snowfalls and icy conditions).

Protection of young trees from damage by mouse-like rodents by tamping (trampling) snow around half-grown trees on thaw days. When trampling down, it is necessary to throw snow from the aisles to the trees so as not to expose the boles.

Cherry and plum care

In the spring before bud break

The activities specified in the section Protection of apple and pear trees are being carried out. If in the past year the trees were affected by coccomycosis or other diseases of cherry and plum, spraying with one of the preparations, see Pesticides used in early spring.

At the beginning of bud break

Spraying (if necessary) with a modern preparation against cherry moths and other caterpillars.

When buds appear (extend)

* Preventive spraying, if the "blue" spraying has not been previously carried out, Bordeaux liquid (100 g of copper sulfate and 100 - 130 g of fresh lime) or one of the substitutes for the Bordeaux mixture, or Colloidal sulfur (100 g) - against monilial burns, coccomycosis, scab and other fungal diseases. If necessary, a compatible insecticide can be added to substitutes for Bordeaux liquid - against leaf rollers and other caterpillars and larvae of honeydews.

Spraying with Bitoxibacillin (40-80 g, 2-5 days) from fruit moth, hawthorn, apple moth, leafworm, silkworm, moth, goldtail.

Or spraying with Lepidocide SK-M with an interval of 7-8 days against each generation of caterpillars of fruit moth (25-50 ml, 2-3 days), hawthorn (50 ml), gold-tail moths, moths, leafworms, silkworms (50-70 ml).

* Shaking off on the litter and destruction of plum ovaries damaged by the larvae of fruit sawflies.

Spraying cherry trees against coccomycosis with 1% Bordeaux liquid or its substitute (Copper oxychloride (30 g), Colloidal sulfur (100 g), also against monilial burn, scab and other fungal diseases).

Spraying with Bitoxibacillin (40-80 g, 2-5 days) from fruit moth, hawthorn, apple moth, leafworm, silkworm, moth, goldtail.

Or spraying with Lepidocide SK-M with an interval of 7-8 days against each generation of caterpillars of fruit moth (25-50 ml, 2-3 days), hawthorn (50 ml), gold-tail moths, moths, leafworms, silkworms (50-70 ml).

Spraying of plum trees inhabited by fruit sawflies, cherries - with one of the preparations: Fitoverm (4 ml), Kinmix (2.5 ml), Inta-VIR (1 tablet), Karbofos (75-90 g). Many of them inhibit the development of leaf-gnawing caterpillars, apple moths, leaf rollers, cherry weevils, and sucking pests - aphids and suckers. Fufanon or Kemifos (10 ml) are also effective against the plum fruit sawfly; they can be mixed with Abiga-Peak and Tiovit-Jet. You can spray cherries against aphids, ticks and others.

Repeated spraying of cherries against coccomycosis (see above) is carried out 15 days after the first spraying.

Periodic inspection of trees and destruction of nests with polychrome caterpillars, etc.

* Collecting wormy and rotten carrion. Treatment of gum wounds (cleaning and rubbing with sorrel juice).

Spraying with Bitoxibacillin (40-80 g, 2-5 days) against each generation of fruit moth, hawthorn, apple moth, leafworm, silkworm, moth, goldtail.

Or spraying with Lepidocide SK-M with an interval of 7-8 days against each generation of caterpillars of apple and fruit moth (25-50 ml, 2-3 days), hawthorn (50 ml), golden moth, moths, leafworms, silkworm (50-75 ml ), apple moth (100-150 g).

For spider, hawthorn and other mites, Apollo (4 ml) or Fufanon (10 ml), and other acaricides are used.

* From apple powdery mildew (especially susceptible varieties to it (Jonathan, Renet Simirenko, Idared, etc.), as well as fruit rot (moniliosis), fungicides are used, Topaz (2 ml), Tiovit-Jet (30-80 g) are effective.

* Periodic inspection of trees and destruction of nests with caterpillars of the ringed silkworm, multiflorum, apple moth and other pests.

Repeated spraying of pears with Colloidal Sulfur (100 g) against pear mites.

Spraying apple trees inhabited by apple sawfly with acaricide with the addition of Karbofos (20 - 30 g) against ticks.

15 - 20 days after the flowering of winter apple varieties (the beginning of hatching of moth caterpillars)

* Spraying with Bitoxibacillin (40-80 g, 2-5 days) from apple and fruit moths, hawthorn, apple moth, leafworm, silkworm, moths, golden moths.

Or spraying with Lepidocide SK-M with an interval of 7-8 days against each generation of caterpillars of apple and fruit moth (25-50 ml, 2-3 days), hawthorn (50 ml), golden moth, moths, leafworms, silkworm (50-75 ml ), apple moth (100-150 g).

Or treatment against the codling moth with Lepidocide SK-M (100-150 ml) and then with an interval of 10-14 days against each generation of codling moth caterpillars or with one of the preparations: Fitoverm (4 ml), Kinmiks (2.5 ml), Inta- VIR (1 tablet), Karbofos (90 g), many of them inhibit the development of leaf-gnawing caterpillars, apple moth, leaf rollers, cherry weevil and sucking pests - aphids, suckers. If it is necessary to combat scab and other fungal diseases, one of the substitutes for the Bordeaux mixture is added to compatible solutions - against scab and other fungal diseases, or Colloidal sulfur (100 g). A safe Lepidocide SK-M (20-30 g, 2-3 days) is used against the apple moth of summer and summer-autumn varieties (to exclude the presence of pesticide residues in the fruits).

Applying fishing belts to the stems of fruiting trees for catching moth caterpillars. Collecting wormy and rotten carrion (daily in the evenings).

With the massive appearance of a red apple tick (300 or more individuals per 100 leaves), as well as against other ticks, Apollo (4 ml), Fufanon (10 ml) are used.

12 - 15 days after the previous spraying

* Repeated spraying of winter and late autumn varieties of apple trees against the codling moth and scab (see above), when treated with benzophosphate - after 16-18 days.

If necessary, re-spraying (using compatible mixtures of Acaricide preparations) also against ticks and other pests.

* Collecting wormy and rotten carrion (if possible, daily in the evenings).

Spraying with Bitoxibacillin (40-80 g, 2-5 days) against each generation of apple and fruit moth, hawthorn, codling moth, leafworm, silkworm, moth, goldtail.

Applying Fishing belts (viewed from every 7-12 days) to the stems of fruiting trees to catch moth caterpillars.

Destruction of corrosive arboreal trees by introducing chlorophos (100 g) into their passages. Cutting off the dead ends of the shoots damaged by the caterpillars of the corrosive first instar (the leaves on the damaged shoots turn brown).

* Identification of inhabited burrows of murine rodents and their destruction with baits, see Zoocides.

Removal of trapping belts against the moth and destruction of caterpillars that have climbed into them.

*13. Removal and burning of wintering hawthorn and goldtail nests and mummified fruits. Raking and burning scab-affected leaves or burying them in the soil when digging. You can put the leaves in compost heaps, covering them with earth or peat.

Collection and burning of fallen leaves (or composting them with a mandatory cover with a layer of earth or peat). Digging the soil (if the garden is not tinned).

Cleaning of dead bark particles from boles and twigs, whitewashing boles and skeletal branches with lime (2 - 2.5 kg) with the addition of copper sulfate (0.4 kg) and wood glue (0.1 kg) or clay (1 kg), or mullein (1 kg), or skim milk (1 - 2 glasses). You can use special whitewashing materials that repel rodents, see Zoocides.

* Tying boles of young trees with tar paper with preliminary winding tightly with matting (or other material), or spruce branches (tightly, with needles down), or reeds to protect against rodents. The use of agents that repel rodents - scattering peat chips around the trees, moistened with creolin emulsion (500 g), etc.

* Attraction of tits and other insectivorous birds to the gardens (hanging titmouses, feeding, especially during heavy snowfalls and icy conditions).

Protection of young trees from damage by mouse-like rodents by tamping (trampling) snow around half-grown trees on thaw days. When trampling down, it is necessary to throw snow from the aisles to the trees so as not to expose the boles.

Currant and gooseberry care

Pests: gooseberry shoot aphid, leaf gall aphid, currant kidney mite, common spider mite, willow, scale insect, birch pseudo-scale (or cushion), currant gall midges, currant kidney moth, gooseberry glass moth, gooseberry, blackberry gooseberry sawfly, pale-footed gooseberry sawfly, black-berry sawfly.

Diseases: American powdery mildew - spheroteka, currant anthracnose, currant and gooseberry septoria blight (white spot), columnar rust, goblet rust, black currant terry (reversion).

In the spring before bud break

* Cutting broken and weakened branches. Removal of blackened ends of shoots affected by powdery mildew and swollen buds affected by currant bud mites. Cutting currant shoots heavily infested with currant bud mites.

* Spraying of bushes and soil in rows and aisles with fungicide (300 g) against anthracnose, septoria, American powdery mildew, aphid eggs, scale insects and larvae of false scales.

Harvesting cuttings of black currant from healthy (previously noted) bushes, not affected by terry and currant bud mites.

Spraying with a solution of Ferrous sulfate (500 g) or another suitable fungicide as a prophylactic agent that inhibits the development of diseases.

When buds appear (before flowering)

* Spraying with Bordeaux liquid (100 g) or one of the substitutes for Bordeaux mixture - against scab and other fungal diseases, or Colloidal sulfur (100 g).

Spraying with Bitoxibacillin (80-100 g, 2-5 days) against leafworm, moth, gooseberry moth, sawfly, leaf gall midge, spider mites.

Or spraying with Lepidocide SK-M with an interval of 7-8 days against each generation of caterpillars of leafworm, gooseberry moth, gooseberry sawfly (50-75 ml, 2-3 days) with an interval of 7-8 days.

If necessary, spraying with Karbofos (30 - 40 g) against gall midges, sawflies, aphids, spider mites, etc.

Spraying of black currant, affected by currant kidney mite, Colloidal sulfur (50 - 100 g). When spraying, do not allow sulfur to get on the gooseberry in order to avoid burning its leaves.

* Identification of black currant bushes affected by terry (for subsequent removal).

* Raking the soil from the bushes, if, to fight the gooseberry moth, they were hilled in the fall.

Spraying with Bitoxibacillin (80-100 g, 2-5 days) against leafworm, moth, gooseberry moth, sawfly, leaf gall midge, spider mites.

Or spraying with Lepidocide SK-M with an interval of 7-8 days against each generation of caterpillars of leafworm, gooseberry moth, gooseberry sawfly (50-75 ml, 2-3 days) with an interval of 7-8 days.

Spraying gooseberries against American powdery mildew (* especially on varieties that are not resistant to it) Soda ash (50 g) with soap (50 g), or ammonium nitrate solution (50 g), or mullein infusion (1 part rotted manure and 3 parts water is infused for three days, diluted with three parts of water and filtered).

If it is necessary to combat anthracnose and septoria, spraying with 1% Bordeaux liquid or combined spraying against anthracnose gooseberry moth, septoria and other diseases with the addition of Karbofos (20-30 g) or Colloidal sulfur (100 g) against spider mites and aphids. ...

Repeated (in case of severe damage) spraying against currant kidney mites with Colloidal sulfur (100 g).

15 days after flowering

* Re-spraying, but no later than 30 days before harvest. against anthracnose, septoria and gooseberry (American) powdery mildew (see above).

Spraying with Lepidocide SK-M with an interval of 7-8 days against each generation of caterpillars of the leafworm, gooseberry moth, gooseberry sawfly (50-75 ml, 2-3 days) with an interval of 7-8 days.

Spraying with insecticide when larvae of leaf and fruit sawflies appear.

Cutting of dying branches damaged by currant glass and stem-shaped gall midge.

Spraying with Bitoxibacillin (80-100 g, 2-5 days) against each generation of leafworm, moth, gooseberry moth, sawfly, leaf gall midge, spider mites.

Or spraying with Lepidocide SK-M with an interval of 7-8 days against each generation of caterpillars of leafworm, gooseberry moth, gooseberry sawfly (50-75 ml, 2-3 days) with an interval of 7-8 days.

Spraying gooseberries against powdery mildew (on varieties that are not resistant to it), with an interval of 10 days, with a solution of soda ash (50 g) with soap (50 g), or a solution of ammonium nitrate (50 g), or infusion of mullein (1 part rotted manure and 3 parts of water are infused for three days, diluted with three parts of water and filtered), Copper-soap emulsion.

* Spraying currants for anthracnose, gooseberries for powdery mildew, also for other diseases with 1% Bordeaux mixture or one of the substitutes for Bordeaux mixture - also against monilial burn, scab and other fungal diseases.

* Raking and burning fallen leaves or burying them in the soil when digging.

Raspberry protection

* Spraying the bushes and the soil between them with a fungicide (200 g) against pathogens of fungal diseases.

At the beginning of bud break

* Spraying with 3% Bordeaux mixture.

Spraying with an insecticide against raspberry kidney moth, with the addition of Karbofos (20-30 g) against aphid moths, or a compatible acaricide against spider mites.

When buds appear, no later than 7 days before flowering

* Cutting and destruction of shoots damaged by raspberry fly larvae. Shaking off raspberry beetles on an open umbrella or on cardboard smeared with a gummy substance, and destruction, preferably daily.

Spraying with Lepidocide SK-M with an interval of 7-8 days against each generation of caterpillars of the leafworm, gooseberry moth, gooseberry sawfly (50-75 ml, 2-3 days) with an interval of 7-8 days.

Spraying with insecticide against raspberry kidney moth, with the addition of Karbofos (20-30 g) against raspberry-strawberry weevil, raspberry beetle and raspberry fly when young shoots appear. In the presence of fungal diseases on the stems (purple spot, anthracnose, septoria, etc.), add one of the substitutes for the Bordeaux mixture (against monilial burn, scab and other fungal diseases), or Colloidal sulfur.

Low cut of shoots (with withered tops) damaged by raspberry fly larvae.

Identification and destruction of plants affected by viral diseases.

During the summer (from the time of flowering

* Periodic inspection of raspberries for culling plants affected by viral diseases (curl, witch's broom, etc.).

Collecting raspberry fruits in baskets, on the bottom of which are laid a hard cloth or paper to catch the larvae of the raspberry beetle. It is carried out when the berries are severely damaged by larvae.

* Low cut of fruiting stems.

* Selection of planting material that is not infected with viral and other diseases.

Spraying with Bordeaux liquid or one of the substitutes for the Bordeaux mixture, Colloidal sulfur (100 g) against pathogens of fungal diseases.

In the presence of mites, treatment with Karbofos.

Strawberry protection

In the spring. After leaving
out of the snow

* Cleaning of dry and diseased leaves and their destruction.

Spraying with 3% Bordeaux mixture against fungal diseases.

At the beginning of the emergence (exposure) of buds

Gray rot -
Collection and destruction of affected berries, spraying plantings with Integral

When raspberry-strawberry weevil, strawberry leaf beetle and strawberry mite appear, spraying with Karbofos (20 - 30 g) against spider mites and Colloidal sulfur (100 g) against powdery mildew.

* Inspection for culling plants affected by strawberry and stem nematodes.

When the first ovaries appear

* Conduct a fight with slugs.

Vegetable care

Cabbage - the culture of the first year

Change of greenhouse land or its disinfection

Disinfection of soil and structures in greenhouses and greenhouses, if this was not done in the fall and last year, cabbage plants were grown. If necessary, disinfection of seeds.

Liming the soil for sowing seedlings.

Sowing seeds for seedlings

Airing greenhouses and greenhouses, preventing sudden fluctuations in temperature and humidity. Timely picking of seedlings, regular watering and loosening.

Catching flea beetles with cloth flags, the upper part of which is smeared with long-lasting glue. Top dressing with slurry, watering.

Adding freshly slaked lime into the holes, in areas infected with keel.

Culling of sick and severely damaged plants.

Sowing dill (near cabbage) and planting several carrot roots to attract entomophages. Re-sowing after 2-3 weeks.

Adding naphthalene mixed with sand to scare away cabbage flies, catching fleas with glue flags, collecting (or crushing eggs and caterpillars of cabbage whites and other butterflies.

Within a month after disembarkation

Removal of plants affected by keel, phomosis and other diseases.

Watering, feeding, hilling plants in case of peryph, signs of wilting as a result of being hit by a keel and cabbage fly. Raking cabbage fly eggs from plants. With the massive appearance of this and other pests, treatment with Karbofos.

Against caterpillars of 1-3 ages of cabbage and turnip whites, it is possible to use Bitoxibacillin, (2-5 days), Lepidocid SK-M (25-50 ml, 1-2 processed).

When aphids appear, crushing colonies, as well as spraying with Karbofos.

Inspection of leaves, collection of caterpillars and leaf beetles, crushing of pest eggs. Trichogramma release. Measures are taken against slugs.

Cleaning, ventilation, drying and disinfection of vegetable storage (1.5-2 months before loading).

Removal and destruction of stumps, deep digging of the soil. Selection for storage of healthy, non-frostbitten heads of cabbage.

Cleaning heads of cabbage from decayed leaves, dusting with chalk, keeping the storage regime.

Careful selection for healthy planting.

When planting, observe the alternation of crops, as well as spatial isolation between crops damaged by the same pests (diseases).

Catching flea beetles with glue flags, in case of mass appearance of them or other pests, treatment (before flowering) with Karbofos. Cleaning heads of cabbage from old, diseased leaves

In the phase of ejection of peduncles and budding

Catching pests - shaking off on an open umbrella or on plywood, greased with grease.

Crushing aphid colonies or treatment with Karbofos.

During the further growing season

Removal of diseased plants and leaves.

Drying cut testes

In the spring before sowing and planting

Selection of healthy seed and planting material. If necessary, warming up and disinfecting it. Grow varieties that are resistant to downy mildew.

Early sowing and planting is possible. Isolation of seedlings and turnips from perennial onion species. Alternating crops, placing onions near carrot crops.

Periodic examination (once a week) and removal of highly infested and diseased plants. Spraying seed plants with 1% Bordeaux mixture. Tearing off and destroying damaged leaves.

Additional loosening of the soil during the pupation of the onion lurker.

Mulching the soil with peat and sprinkling along the rows of naphthalene mixed with sand (1: 1) or other materials that repel the onion fly.

Cleaning after massive yellowing and the beginning of lodging of leaves, if possible in dry weather. Dry the onions until the leaves are completely dry. Culling of borl and rotten bulbs.

Immediately after cutting the leaves

Additional drying and, if necessary, heating at a temperature of 42-43 ° for two days (heating can reduce the germination of the bulbs).

Thorough cleaning of plant residues, deep digging of the soil.

Before storing, dusting with chalk if necessary.

Proper storage (air humidity 70-75%, temperature 1-6 °). Periodic bulkhead, especially planting material, culling of diseased bulbs

Purchase of healthy seeds, selection for planting healthy roots.

Catching flea beetles with glue flags.

In the early period of testes growth

Clearing plantings from diseased root crops.

In the phase of 1-2 leaves and later

Crushing of eggs and larvae of glassy flies, manual collection of other pests. Treatment with Karbofos against aphids of viburnum, euonymus and jasmine before and after their flowering, for the destruction of aphids before their flight to beets, crushing aphids when they appear on beets. With the massive appearance of aphids, bedbugs and other pests - spraying with karbofos.

Cultivation of several plants of carrots and other umbrella plants nearby.

Periodic loosening of the soil, timely thinning of beets, removal of weeds.

Before sowing, laying out the Medvetox granules in grooves around the bed against the bear.

Early spring sowing and planting of testes. Sowing carrots as far as possible from the seeds of this culture.

Timely thinning and weeding of seedlings.

During the flowering period of apple and mountain ash, add naphthalene with sand (1: 1) to scare away carrot flies.

Removal of damaged plants.

Early (1.5-2 months before harvesting) cleaning and disinfection of the vegetable store.

During and after harvest

Cleaning, if possible, dry. Removing the tops.

Careful selection of root crops when laying the testes for storage.

Compliance with the storage regime. Removal of diseased root crops.

Disinfection of soil and structures in greenhouses and greenhouses, if this was not done in the fall and last year cucumbers were grown.
From the black leg - 3 days before planting the seedlings, the soil is treated with colloidal sulfur (40 g, 50 sq.m), the preparation "Barrier" (1 tbsp.) Is added to the hole.spoon per well, mix with soil).

Preparation of manure beds. Fight against murine rodents (see Zoocides).

Using healthy seeds that have been stored for more than two years. Sowing as early as possible (you can partially grow through seedlings).

From sprout flies - young seedlings are treated, for example, with Iskra.

Removal of plants affected by viral diseases. Cutting and destruction of diseased plant parts.

From melon aphids - the inhabited places are wiped with a rag or brush moistened with a solution of soap (10 g / 1 l), treated (2 times after 6-10 days), with Karbofos. or use folk methods of protection. Remove weeds.
From spider mites - collection and destruction of affected leaves (burn or buried deep) plants are sprayed (several times), if possible, on the underside of the leaves with any acaricide or insectoacaricide to destroy weeds.

Against diseases in protected ground - alternation of crops or replacement (2-5 cm) of the soil layer, destruction of plant residues; selection of stable hybrids; avoid thickened crops; tying with new twine; airing, maintaining optimal air temperature (during the day 24-26 °, up to 30 °, at night 20 -22 °), air humidity (80-90%) and soil (80-85%) regular top-up of soil to the stems (except for root rot) top dressing with missing elements irrigation (not sprinkling) with heated water in the morning until 11 a.m. sprinkling of the affected areas with wood ash or crushed coal, removal (and burning or burying deep) of dead plants (along with a lump of soil), as well as affected areas of plants and excess leaves in the hot hours of the day (for quick drying of wounds). Moreover:
From anthracnose - treatment with Colloidal sulfur (40 g) or Bordeaux mixture (at intervals of 10-15 days, if necessary).
From white rot - foliar top dressing (1 g of zinc sulfate, 2 g of copper sulfate and 10 g of urea per 10 L of water), treatment with a preparation (40 g) after collecting podds.
From root rot - in the fall or spring, before sowing or planting a raessade, disinfecting the soil with a preparation (40 g, 50 sq.m) when planting seedlings, do not cover the stem, then do not spud do not plant parsley in a greenhouse on a leaf; reduce air humidity to 70% by airing top dressing organic fertilizers, for example, "Barrier" (5 tablespoons / 10l / 10 plants) when a disease occurs, shake off the soil from the stem to the roots and moisten the affected part of the stem with a brush (from the root to the height of 12 cm of the stem) with a mixture: 0.5 l of water + 40 g of the preparation Hom + half a teaspoon of the preparation "Bud" + 3 tbsp. spoons of chalk or wood ash or lime-fluff (stir thoroughly) water only the soil, while making sure that the soil does not cover the diseased part rubbing the affected areas and then dusting them with crushed coal, chalk or fluff lime sprinkling around the plants ash or crushed coal treatment Hom preparation (40 g) after harvesting the fruits, as well as holes (80 g) after removing diseased plants.
From downy mildew - watering in the morning with warm water, maintaining air humidity not higher than 80%, night temperature not lower than 18-20 °, treatment with Topaz (1 ampoule), Bordeaux mixture or copper oxychloride or spraying with a serum solution (3 l + 1 h .spoon of copper sulfate + 7 liters of water) or pure whey.
From ascochitis - dusting the affected areas or coating them with a mixture of copper sulfate and chalk (1: 1), reducing air humidity to 70%, foliar feeding with a 0.5% solution of potassium sulfate (50g / 10 l).
From the green mosaic - spraying with skim milk (1 part per 10 hours of water), 2-3 times after 10 days, using a new twine to tie.
From powdery mildew - alternating crops, growing resistant varieties, removing affected leaves when the first spots appear, smearing them with ground or colloidal sulfur (using a cotton swab) and then, if necessary, treating both sides of the leaves with Topaz (2 ml, the first prophylactic spraying when 8 -10 leaves, the second after 10-12 days), a solution of potassium permanganate (1.5 g / 10 l), infusion of mullein, colloidal sulfur (40 g, in cloudy weather), soda ash.
From brown (olive) fruit spot - spraying up to 11 hours (2 times after 5-6 days) with Bordeaux mixture, or copper oxychloride.
From gray rot - the choice of self-pollinating hybrids, dusting the affected areas of plants with a mixture (1 teaspoon of copper sulfate + 1 glass of wood ash and chalk, mix well) cutting and burning heavily affected shoots, spraying with Copper Oxychloride.
From ordinary mosaic (PTO) - use not your own seeds, but branded processed ones, destroying diseased plants, disinfecting equipment and containers in a solution of potassium permanganate or bleach.
From fusarium wilting of cucumber - disinfection of soil and seeds, destruction of heavily affected plants.
For bacteriosis, or angular leaf spot - destruction of diseased seedlings by spraying with fungicides, during fruiting - with the bacterial preparation "Zaslon" (3 caps per 1 liter), repeat after 6-7 days.

Against the greenhouse whitefly - the destruction of weeds, the device of glue traps (the cardboard is painted yellow or white, smeared with muxid glue), hanging the vents with gauze.
Against the cucumber gnat - treatment, for example, with Iskra (1 tab., 100 sq. M.).

Against aphids - spraying with an onion solution (2 times, after 5-6 days, or pepper infusion (2 times, after 5-6 days), or with an ash solution, or with Iskra preparations (1 tab., 1 l / 10 sq. M.) , Phosbecid (1 ampoule per 5 liters, per 50 sq. M), Confidor (1 ml per 10 liters, per 100 sq. M.).

For whitefly - spraying with Phosbecid preparations (1 ampoule per 5 liters, per 50 square meters), Confidor (1 ml per 10 liters, per 100 square meters). Washing it off the leaves with water and top dressing, followed by loosening (2 cm) and mixing it with soil.

From bacterial fruit rot - reduction of watering, removal of rotten ovaries and fruits, spraying with ox (20 g, 100 sq. M).

For powdery mildew - spraying the lower and upper sides of the leaves with a mullein solution, or Call ser (40 g), or herbal infusion, or Topaz (1 ampoule, per 100 sq. M), or pollination with ground sulfur

Disinfection of soil and structures in greenhouses and greenhouses, if this was not done in the fall and last year, tomatoes or other nightshades were grown. If necessary, disinfection of seeds.

When growing and planting seedlings

Removal of diseased plants. Seedling seedlings.

If possible, spatial isolation of tomato from potato planting.

Ventilation of air and soil in protected ground. Regular even watering, especially during the fruiting period.

Against whitefly - treatment of plants with karbofos. Against late blight, spraying with Bordeaux mixture (up to 4 times). Clearing diseased plants.

Preventive spraying against late blight with Bordeaux mixture.

If there is a danger of an outbreak of late blight, harvesting the fruit with subsequent ripening. Sick fruits are harvested and destroyed.

Collecting seeds from healthy plants.


Raspberry, currant, gooseberry

Do gooseberries need care all year round? Yes, if you want a decent harvest. Take note of the calendar of work on the berry.

Raspberry shoots have grown all over the garden and even "dropped in" to the neighbors? We will tell you how to get rid of it and where you can use it.

In order for the thornless blackberry to please for a long time with a rich harvest of healthy and tasty berries, observe a number of conditions for its cultivation.

To get a decent harvest of currants, several important work needs to be done right now.

Wondering how to care for raspberries in spring? Read our step by step tips!

Descriptions, colorful schemes, recommendations for the care of varieties - Jumbo, Loch Mary, Heaven can wait, Chester, etc. Choose and plant!

To your attention - the best varieties of gooseberries with amazing taste properties.

Currants are called "black pearls of beauty and health" for a reason. It is also not only healthy, but also tasty berry.

Pruning blackberries in the fall and preparing them for winter is troublesome. But for the correct development of the bush and abundant fruiting, the procedure cannot be neglected.

Tired of dealing with gluttonous insects in your garden? Effective tools to help you!

Autumn pruning of raspberries often confuses newcomers - what to cut, how to cut and why do it at all? We will answer all your questions!

Closer to autumn, plants are depleted of nutrient reserves. How much fertilizer should be applied under berry bushes and when is it better to do it?

Do you want one currant bush to be enough for the whole family? Choose large-fruited varieties for planting and enjoy the results.

How to increase the yield of currants several times? Prune the plant correctly every season.

Find out when and how to prune gooseberries.

What to do with raspberries and blackberries in autumn to get an excellent harvest next season? The technology is as simple as "one, two, three"!

We figure out what fertilizers to apply in the fall under raspberries and when to do it.

We will tell you how you can feed berry bushes in the wettest season of the year.

In order not to lose the currant crop, you need to timely protect the bushes from diseases and pests.

Everyone loves fragrant sweet berries, but not many summer residents know how to properly care for raspberries. Let's correct this omission!

Clear algorithms for caring for raspberries from spring to autumn.

The appearance of berries on raspberries is not a reason to stop carefully caring for shrubs.

We have planted a blueberry bush and are waiting for berries, but they are still missing. We will tell you why this is happening, and list the mistakes that you could have made.

We will tell you how to care for currants after harvest so that there will be a lot of berries next year!

The head of the "Vereskovaya Strana" farm (Dzerzhinsky district, Minsk region) Alexander Simagin shares his experience in growing blueberries.

Autumn is still far away, but the foliage of your favorite berry grows yellow and dries? Disorder - an urgent need to look for the reasons and eliminate them!

Have the leaves of your favorite berries turned yellow and covered with spots? There may be several reasons, we will help you figure out what the matter is.

Are the fragrant berry bushes turning yellow and withering? This is not the case - take care of them before it's too late!

Powdery mildew-resistant blackcurrant varieties have long been a reality thanks to the efforts of breeders.

This article will help you identify the disease of red and black currants and gooseberries.

There are some secrets to growing garden blueberries. We are ready to share them.

Secrets of fertilizing under berry fields.

Have you noticed multi-colored spots on currant leaves? Are these single signals of nutritional deficiencies or signs of disease?

Here's how to properly prune raspberry bushes throughout the season.

Do you know what you need to do to make the currant branches bent under the weight of the berries?

Berry bushes are among the first to wake up. So, it is impossible to delay spraying currant bushes in the spring - diseases and pests are not asleep!

Never make these 7 mistakes when growing currants!

What to wish if, instead of a good harvest, spots appeared on the black currant bush, and the leaves began to bubble? To help the plant correctly, you first need to learn how to correctly diagnose.

Do not make these typical mistakes - and your currant bushes will delight you with a good harvest of large berries every year.


Gardening in August

In August, fruit trees lay the harvest of the next year. At this time, they need feeding with phosphorus and potassium. So, in mid-August, stone fruit trees are fed as follows.

For cherries, apricots, plums - 2 tbsp. spoons of double superphosphate, 1 tbsp. spoon of potassium sulfate in a bucket of water. Under each tree, according to the crown projection, 4 buckets of such a solution are poured and a liter jar of ash is introduced on wet soil.

At the end of summer, leafy spots, coccomycosis, in which most of the leaves turn yellow and fall off, can develop on cherries, sweet cherries, ducks. You can treat with 1% Bordeaux mixture or Abiga-peak.

Harvesting berries and fruits

Early varieties of apples, pears, cherry plums, sea buckthorn and late cherries ripen in August.Rowan and chokeberry ripen, currants and gooseberries complete fruiting. Do not let apples and pears overripe, remove them 3-5 before ripening. At the same time, try not to spoil the skin so that the fruits are stored longer. Burn the carrion so that the moth does not multiply. Remove cherry varieties prone to shedding, such as Lamu variety, first.

Strengthen the branches strewn with fruits and berries with props to make it easier for trees and shrubs to survive until the end of the season. To do this, you can use wooden spears, long boards with a depression, or other materials at hand.

Eat the harvested crop fresh or make delicious seaming.

Apple tree care

If there is a lot of Californian scale insects on the apple trees (red dots on the fruits), spray with fufanon-nova (13 ml per 10 liters of water) in early August. Do not leave the carrion under the trees overnight, collect it regularly, otherwise the caterpillars will abandon the fruit and crawl through the trees.

An autumn complex fertilizer can be applied under an apple tree or a pear.

An effective top dressing is the AVA fertilizer. It is introduced every three years into the groove along the perimeter of the crown: 3 tbsp. spoons for the apple tree, 2.5 tbsp. spoons for pears.

It is brought in dry to a depth of 5-8 cm and sprinkled with earth on top. It is assimilated gradually over three years, it is not carried away by water, it is not buried in the soil.

Hot summer (including August) promotes the formation of the third generation of the moth, which is dangerous for late varieties of apple trees.

Against it, trees can be sprayed with biological products - lepidocid or bitoxibacillin, repeated after 10-14 days. They have a waiting period of 5 days. If you use a biological product fitoverm, one treatment is enough, the waiting period is 2 days.

All three drugs are also effective against a complex of other pests, including red currant aphids.

Instead of biological products in August, you can use fufanon-nova and other chemical insecticides.

In early August, sow mustard, preferably white, under the pear and apple tree. After 1.5-2 months, it can be buried in the ground. This is a good organic fertilizer, in addition, mustard will rid the soil of diseases and pests. 500 gr are sown per one hundred square meters. mustard seeds.

What to do with strawberries?

First of all, clear the fruiting plantation from weeds, water, loosen the soil, feed the plants. In early August, add 5-10 g per sq. m of urea, at the end of the month - 10-15 g of superphosphate and 5-10 g of potassium sulfate.

This is necessary for building foliage, laying fruit buds. Strawberries should leave for the winter more robust.

Observe the condition of the plants. If spots appear on the leaves or strawberry mites, treat with pesticides: fufanon-nova + abiga-peak.

Plant strawberries at the end of August. Use the strongest rosettes on your mustache - the first and the second. Water all newly planted strawberry rosettes in the morning or in the evening every other day and shade them from direct sunlight.

Remove 4-year-old single-fruiting strawberry bushes. Before planting, the roots of plants are immersed for 1-2 hours in a solution of phytosporin (2-3 g per liter of water), potassium humate.

The first feeding of strawberries is carried out two weeks after planting with urea - 20 g + 30 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potassium fertilizer per sq. m. This dressing is necessary for the growth of leaf mass and for future fruiting.

With a weak renewal and development of the leaf apparatus, feed with a complex fertilizer - diammophos or azofos.

Kill weeds and mustaches at the same time.

Raspberry care

Raspberries are fed with double superphosphate (1 tbsp. Spoon) + 1 tbsp. a spoonful of potassium sulfate, diluted in 10 liters of water, and watered with 1 liter under each bush or 1 running meter of tape planting.

After cutting the fruiting stems, the raspberries are sprayed with zircon (the dosage is on the package). Also at the end of summer, black and red currants are fed to enhance immunity and increase resistance to diseases.

Examine the annual raspberry shoots.Cut out the stem gall midges (blisters on the shoots) and burn them. Remove excess growth. Leave 2-4 shoots per bush.

Against spider mites on raspberries (on the upper side, the leaves become pale, light, with small white specks, on the lower side - with cobwebs), treat the fufanon-nova leaves inhabited by the mite after removing.

Harvesting raspberries must be thinned out.

Against raspberry shoot and leaf spots (anthracnose, ulcerative spot and purple spot), remove diseased annual shoots after pruning and removing fruit-bearing shoots and spray the plants with 1% Bordeaux liquid or its substitutes.

In a timely manner, discard and burn the shoots affected by the virus (mosaics, yellow raspberry mesh, curl). Spray raspberry bushes when aphids appear with fufanonova, since viruses are transmitted by aphids.

Keep the soil moist in the raspberry bush as it will raspberry roots are superficial.

Pinch the tops of young shoots left for the next year's harvest. Water and feed organics with phosphate-potassium fertilizers.

Preparing for planting trees and shrubs

In August, you need to prepare holes for planting trees in the second decade of October and berry bushes - at the end of September.

On loamy soil, the diameter of the pit should be 120 cm, the depth - 60 cm, of which 40 are the pit and 20 are loosened (fertile soil layer, then fertilizers mixed with the soil.)

For berry bushes, the diameter of the pit is 70 cm, the depth is 50 cm (30 - pit, 20 - loosened layer).

They do not dig a hole under the raspberries, but loosen the soil with 1.5 bayonets of a shovel.

For planting trees, an average of rotted manure is brought into the pit - 2-3 buckets (depending on the soil) or compost - 4-5 buckets, superphosphate - 0.5 kg, wood ash - 0.5 kg. For shrubs, these rates are halved.

For currants, the amount of ash is increased to 0.8 kg. Mineral fertilizers are poured onto the bottom of the pit, and organic matter is placed closer to the roots and must be mixed with the soil.

Summer tree pruning

Pruning to keep the crown of fruit-bearing trees small.

To stop the growth of strong annual growths with a length of 40-50 cm or more, especially when forming young trees, pinching is carried out in mid-August - pinching the tops of shoots with 2-3 upper leaves, leaving at least 4-5 leaves.

Cut out all vertical shoots at the top of the crown. Do not cut the lower part of the crown.

Currant and gooseberry care

For currants and gooseberries, brightening pruning can be done.

Immediately after harvesting, old, fruiting branches are removed, as well as excess, thickening shoots.

This pruning can be continued throughout the fall, until the onset of severe frosts. And in the spring, make detailed pruning.

Red currants

In early August, pinch the annual shoots of the current year. As a result, many flower buds are formed by autumn. Biennial branches begin to bear fruit, the berries increase in size.

It's time to check the condition of the storage facilities and prepare them for laying a new crop. Thoroughly clean the premises from debris, ventilate well, dry, whitewash with slaked lime (1.5-2 kg of lime per 10 liters of water) with the addition of copper sulphate (from 150-200 g to 500 g). Dry the rooms again. If necessary, repair the container or purchase a new one.

Grape care

Harvest early grapes by carefully cutting off the bunches with sharp pruners or scissors. Try not to damage the wax film so that the berries are better preserved. Remove rotten parts immediately. Feed the middle and late varieties with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (according to the instructions). Shorten the tops of the vines by 20-25 cm. This procedure is called chasing, it allows you to accelerate the ripening of the grapes. Trim any excess leaves so that the bunches receive more sunlight.


Possible reproduction of black currant

In conclusion, I would like to talk about the sometimes necessary and important reproduction of black currant by lignified cuttings. This may well be included in the category and topic of care for the simple reason that often a disease or pest, at least the same glass, can affect most of the plant, and uprooting and throwing a favorite variety in the trash can be insulting to tears. And reproduction by lignified cuttings of black currant can save the situation, and in the process of caring for the plant, you will save the life of this particular variety.

Do not rush to throw away the diseased blackcurrant bush, delve into its annual growth, maybe you will find one or two shoots, or maybe a dozen, and then there is every chance that this variety will continue to grow on your site. All that is needed is to cut them (healthy ones) to a length of 15 cm and make a small bed in the garden, well loosening and watering the soil. Next, obliquely, at an angle of 45 degrees, so that the barrel is heated by the sun, plant the cuttings, deepening them so that only a couple of buds remain on the surface. Plant them ... and wait for the buds to awaken in the spring. From a bunch of awakened cuttings of black currant, you can leave everything or choose only the strongest and most well-developed ones, and pull out the rest, thinning the micro-plantation. Thus, caring for currants on the site will turn into a real salvation of a dying variety.

As we can see, caring for black currants in the autumn period is no different. You will have to spend a couple of days to work on the site, but you can also look at it from the other side: winter is coming and we will not see our favorite site for six months, so enjoy the "extreme" days of warmth and simple, but such extremely useful work!


Watch the video: How to Plant Blackcurrants u0026 Currants: Easy Fruit Growing Guide